Waves are swimming motions of the water, caused by the action of the wind. Their height and velocity deepen on the forces of the wind, and depth of the basin in which they occur. The stronger the wind, and the deeper the ocean, the higher the waves and the greater their velocity.
Edwin J. Houston, The Elements of Physical Geography, for the use of Schools, Academies, and Colleges. (Philadelphia: Eldredge & Brother, 1891) 75