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The figure "shows the effect of a circular island upon the cotidal lines." -Coast and Geodetic Survey, 1901

Island Tides

The figure "shows the effect of a circular island upon the cotidal lines." -Coast and Geodetic Survey,…

As the motion of the wave is moving in the right direction in this diagram, a, b, c, and d represent the locations of a floating cork and its positions on the wave. it is at b as it reaches X, c at Y, d at Z, and a at B.

Wave Motion

As the motion of the wave is moving in the right direction in this diagram, a, b, c, and d represent…

"It is seen that the motion of each particle is rectilinear and simple harmonic...The paths are vertical where...multiplies of 180 degrees and horizontal at points halfway between." -Coast and Geodetic Survey, 1901

Wave Motion

"It is seen that the motion of each particle is rectilinear and simple harmonic...The paths are vertical…

The figure "represents the progress of a wave up a broad depression or valley 40 miles wide at the bottom and 240 at the top, the depth at the center being 1000 feet." -Coast and Geodetic Survey, 1901

Wave Progress

The figure "represents the progress of a wave up a broad depression or valley 40 miles wide at the bottom…